You've said that 23carat is an ode to heirlooms - was there a particular heirloom that started this project?

23carat actually started after my grandfather passed away. He had a few very fine mid-century signet rings that I loved but didn't inherit, and it sent me on this journey of collecting vintage jewelry to stay connected with him. I realized I had accumulated all of these men’s rings that didn't even fit me, so I decided to put them up on Etsy and the response was surprising. Not only did they fly off the shelf, but people were also very interested in their provenance and story– and the gemstones of course. That's when I discovered there was a whole world of vintage and antique jewelry that I absolutely fell in love with. And I then needed to know everything about it!

So what was the first piece you've sourced for 23carat?

The first piece I found was actually this Victorian Starburst ring that reminded me of my grandfathers’ onyx starburst signet. This was about 7 years ago, so it was before Starburst rings started getting popular (again). I'm definitely not claiming I started the trend or anything, but it's interesting to see how certain motifs cycle. Nowadays, you can find the Starburst setting in pieces by fashion houses like Dior, all the way to everyday demi-fine brands, like Mejuri.

Are there any techniques from the past you wish would make a comeback?

Hand-cut gemstones, definitely. Most stones are laser-cut now, which gives you this perfect precision, but there's something so special about hand-cut stones. They add this satiating character to the piece. The slight variations in the facets catch light differently, and it gives the jewelry a personality that's harder to replicate with modern manufacturing techniques. I find myself drawn to these older pieces because of those imperfections—they're not flaws, they're evidence of human touch, and I think that's why these vintage pieces have such lasting appeal.

I’m going to study jewelry design in Rome in a few weeks, and my vision is to merge the old with the new. I’ve been hunting for old hand-cut gems to incorporate in new designs, and I’m beyond excited to see that story come to life. It’s also been so fun watching the vintage jewelry landscape evolve since we started the business. You see jewelry aficionados mixing jewels from different eras, neck stacks with trinkets from the 1800s layered with a blingy tennis necklace–the juxtaposition is chef’s kiss!

There have been many fabulous celebrity engagement rings over the years, is there a particular ring that’s your favorite?

I'm really drawn to toi et moi rings. I know those have been really popular lately, and hats off to Emily Ratajkowski for bringing it back since Jackie Kennedy’s. There's something so romantic about how the two stones play off each other. One stone leaning up against the other, or quite literally toi et moi, which translates to ‘you and me’ in French. 

I also love a classic halo cluster, specifically a ring like Princess Diana's. They’re very versatile–it could be an engagement ring, but it could just be a statement piece. You can dress it up or down and play with the stones. We can’t forget their divorce rings, something both Em Rata and Princess Di did so well.

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What’s the most unique piece you’ve encountered? Have you had any pieces with historical significance? I’d love to hear the story. 

There's two. The first is a bloodstone signet with someone’s family crest carved into the stone, so they could press their seal into wax. It had a crack on it so I wasn't sure who it'd be for, but I strongly believe that there’s a person out there for every piece. I had it up for months and a man who'd been doing some genealogy research reached out and it turned out to be his family's crest from the 1660s in the British Isles. He literally found our ring through a google image search while researching his family history, and decided to repatriate the ring to pass onto his children. It was such an incredible connection—this piece finding its way back to a descendant of the original family. 

I also love traveling, for pleasure and for work, and there was this time I was in Italy and came across this old Italian man selling contemporary jewelry. I asked if he knew where I could find a vintage jewelry shop. He told me to stay put and ran inside and came back with an actual treasure chest full of the most incredible pieces. Let's just say the entire box came home with me, and I kept one for myself. The ring was from the 1800s, yet it looked so modern in design. A hand-cut elongated sapphire from India, nestled between two rose cut diamonds. There's something about finding pieces like that, especially while traveling—you're not just buying jewelry, you're coming home with a piece of history that is now your own.

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What advice would you give to someone looking to begin their collection of heirlooms?

Always look for a piece that speaks to you. It's like dating. You'll know when you've found 'the one'. These aren't just seasonal, the goal is they'll be something you pass down. There's this moment when you see a piece and it just resonates with you, like a piece of fine art at the museum that makes you weak in the knees—there's a connection there. Don't rush it or settle for something that doesn't give you that feeling. Each piece should have meaning, should tell a story, and ultimately become a part of you, almost like a tattoo (can you tell I love metaphors). That's what makes them worth passing down. When your children or grandchildren inherit these pieces someday, they're inheriting a part of your story, your style, your journey. So take your time, be selective, and only choose pieces that truly speak to you.

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