Francis de Lara
Visionary designer John-Paul Pietrus, the creative force behind Francis de Lara, seamlessly blends Renaissance artistry with contemporary luxury in his innovative fine jewelry-eyewear collections. Drawing inspiration from Florence's artistic treasures and centuries of craftsmanship, Pietrus has pioneered a new category of wearable art that transforms the functional into the extraordinary.
What inspired you to create the unique concept of fine jewelry-eyewear, and how did your time studying in Florence influence your creative vision?
Whilst living in Florence to study jewellery design at the esteemed Metallo Nobile, I sauntered over to the Palazzo Pitti or the Uffizi many times a day. As I was looking at all of the beautiful Renaissance paintings: royalty and clergy adorned in incredible jewellery and clothing, I thought to myself “what kind of sunglasses would they have worn if they had had them?” That idea developed into the idea of these jewellery-glasses: some for sun, and some for evening with clear to lightly tinted lenses that a woman can don with a simple black ‘Le Smoking’ tuxedo or a stunning red-carpet gown, to make a bold and beautiful statement, as an option to the more traditional necklace or brooch. Francis de Lara jewellery-eyewear crosses the boundaries between fine jewellery and eyewear, incorporating precious metals, stones, and woods with the spirit of Renaissance jewellery into eyewear.
Can you walk us through the creation process of a Francis de Lara piece, from concept to completion?
Francis de Lara couture pieces are made by hand over hundreds of hours. FDL Editions (the diffusion line) by Francis de Lara are machine made, but with hand cut gemstones which are hand set, many by my own hands. I incorporate traditional Florentine jewellery textures such as the ‘rigato’ grosgrain ribbon and ‘telato’ linen textures. Many of the gems are from a secret stash I have access to, which were cut in the 1970s and in that sense, sustainable.
How do you see eyewear evolving in an era where accessories increasingly serve as statement pieces?
Eyewear has already taken many bold steps forward in the past decade, and I am trying to take those steps even further by really making them pieces of jewellery. I think other designers will follow suit. There is also the area of technology to explore, with ‘smart eyewear’ already being made… and now we can develop that even further.
Do you have a favorite gemstone to work with and why?
I can’t choose one! But I do like coloured-gemstones over white diamonds, aesthetically. I am very much a colour-lover!
Beyond Renaissance influences, what other artistic periods or elements inspire your designs?
There is obviously a nod to 1970s glamour with my oversized ‘Supersize Aviators’. But I am inspired by a vast array of things, from antiques to palaces to silverware to stair-railings! Inspiration is everywhere.
What's one surprising thing about working with precious materials that most people wouldn't know?
The difference between gold to silver to titanium is interesting in that all have very unique properties. For example, titanium, which I incorporate into my FDL Editions forms in a very different way to gold and silver, so the design process is also very different. It is also incredibly lightweight, strong and hypo-allergenic. I gold-plate the titanium in a vacuum, which means it will not get damaged by oils, lotions, etc which normally is the case with gold-plate.
As you expand into traditional jewelery forms, how do you maintain the distinctive Francis de Lara aesthetic while exploring new territories?
It’s natural. The same influences and inspirations apply to my rings, necklaces, and earrings as they do to my eyewear. They are all in the same world and come from my mind, soul, and heart.